Sometime back I purchased a RadioBerry HAT for my RaspberryPi 4 single board computer (SBC) to use as an experimental platform to test PiHPSDR software modifications and to test changes to the actual RadioBerry software. With these two projects completed I decided that the receiver on the RadioBerry was so good it would be a shame not to put it to good use.
RadioBerry HAT
For many decades I’ve been an avid Short Wave Listener (SWL) but, haven’t had a general coverage receiver for many years. The RadioBerry fills this gap in my radio lineup perfectly but, needs to be put into a suitable cabinet with speakers, display, control knobs and antenna connections.
Rather than just buy another bland square box I decided it would be nice to repurpose an old, vintage radio receiver from a bygone era and bring it into the 21st Century.
1946 Philips valve radio receiver
After much searching on the popular auction sites online I eventually found the perfect old receiver for the project, a vintage Philips 170A-15 valve receiver from 1946.
This lovely old Art Deco looking receiver is made from Bakelite which was an early type of plastic made from phenol-formaldehyde resin, obtained from coal tar and methanol.
The full specification for the receiver can be found on the Radio Museum Website.
Sadly this is a non working example of this lovely old receiver and so I don’t feel so guilty stripping it out and replacing it’s internals with the RadioBerry.
1946 Philips receiver Serial Number plate1946 Philips receiver Licence Plate
Having the original serial number and Licence plate on the radio is nice, it also makes it easy to search for information about the old receiver.
One nice thing I did discover during the disassembly of the receiver was the signature of the person that put the radio together during manufacture on the inside of the Bakelite cabinet.
1946 Philips receiver builder signature
Getting the internals out of the cabinet was fun, so many little screws holding the old valve electronics and tuning display in place.
1946 Philips Receiver – Internal View1946 Philips receiver – removing the original control knobs
Once the electrical part of the radio was removed I gained access to the old speaker that was fitted to the front panel of the receiver. Unfortunately the speaker cone had a tear in it rendering it useless so I’ll need to get a new speaker(s) for the rebuild.
1946 Philips receiver speaker view
Once I got the speaker and fittings removed I set about cleaning the cabinet inside and out to remove the 79 years worth of dirt and grime that had collected within. The fascia of the receiver cabinet seems to have lost it’s shine and will need to be polished to get it back to it’s original beauty.
79 years worth of grime and dirt to be removed!Washing the Bakelite receiver case
It took 5 lots of fresh water and washing up liquid to get the cabinet clean. The first three lots of water looked like mud in no time at all such was the state of the cabinet.
With the cabinet now cleaned and put to one side to dry thoroughly I have started to search for the best type of polish to use to put the sheen back onto it.
Once I’ve got the cabinet looking good again I’ll start fitting the new internals. I also need to find a source for a new piece of material to cover the speaker hole at the front of the cabinet as the original material is looking somewhat tired.
The old Philips Emblem from 1946 on the receiver case
Since I’ve had my Hermes Lite 2 (HL2) and Xiegu XPA125B amplifier combo I’ve had to manually change the band setting on the amp as I never purchased the HL2 I/O board when I initially purchased the kit.
At the time I didn’t think I would need it but, changing band manually on the amp (and sometimes forgetting causing tuning issues) is a nuisance and so I put my hand in my pocket once again and ordered the I/O board for the HL2.
Hermes Lite 2 I/O Board
The HL2 I/O board is a small RaspberryPi Pico controlled device that can be used for a multitude of functions depending on the software loaded. Many people are writing their own software for the Pico to do things like control transverters, remote antenna switches, amplifiers and just about anything else you can think of. It’s a really versatile little add on board for the HL2.
The I/O board arrived after about 10 days from Makerfabs, all nicely packaged as always. Unfortunately due to Christmas, New year and other priorities it’s sat in the box since it arrived.
A couple of days ago I finally got round to getting it out of the box and set about configuring it to control the Xiegu amp.
The Xiegu amp needs three connections from the I/O board. They are PTT, Band Switching Voltage and Ground. These are easily accessed from the I/O board via 3 jumper wires to connect to the DB9 connector on the rear of the board.
The other thing that is required is some software for the RaspberryPi Pico to control the whole process. Steve, M0XVT has kindly supplied me with a copy of the software.
Soldering the jumpers from the relevant points on the circuit board to the DB9 connector was pretty straight forward. You can use any of the pins on the DB9 connector that you like as from the factory the DB9 connector isn’t connected to anything. I decided to use pins 2, 6 and 8 and so will refer to those pins from this point forward.
HL2 I/O Board Jumpers
I used a different colour for each of the jumpers so that I knew which jumper was for which connection. The colours used also match the colours of the wire in the old RS232 serial lead that I cannibalized to make the connection between the I/O board and the amp thus making it easy to ensure continuity.
The colours are as follows:
Black Jumper - Ground - Pin 2 on DB9 Connector
White Jumper - PTT - Pin 6 on DB9 Connector
Red Jumper - Band Control - Pin 8 on DB9 Connector
The I/O board gets its power feed directly from the HL2 main board however, the 3 pins it needs to connect to don’t have any headers in place and so, it’s necessary to solder a short row of 3 header pins onto the HL2 main board.
I found the easiest way to do this was to put the 3 header pins into the correct position and then use the HL2 to N2ADR filter board connector to hold them in place whilst soldering. This worked perfectly and I soon had the header pins soldered onto the main board.
Extra 3 header pins soldered to the main HL2 board
It’s important to note that the 3 extra header pins need to be placed 2 holes away from existing header pins as shown above. Take care to get these pins in the right position so as not to cause any damage to the 3 circuit boards once all are connected and powered up.
Note: The HL2 main board must be removed from the case to solder the extra 3 header pins in place. Take care to ensure the correct fitting of the PA heatsink when when refitting the HL2 main board into the case.
At this point I refitted the N2ADR Filter board back into the HL2 case so that the two sets of header pins aligned correctly ready for the placement of the new I/O board that would connect all 3 circuit boards together.
Preparing the N2ADR Filter board for reconnection
Once the filter board was in place I fitted the new I/O board taking care to ensure all pins aligned with the socket and then gently pushed it home.
Close up of the HL2 I/O board fitted to the main HL2 board and N2ADR Filter board
The close up of the I/O board connector above shows how the extra 3 header pins connect to the last 3 sockets in the I/O board connector. It’s a snug fit with the N2ADR filter board below it.
View of the fitted HL2 I/O board from above
Before the HL2 case can be put back together it’s necessary to load the software onto the RaspberryPi Pico (top left in photo above) that controls the I/O board.
This is accomplished by pressing the tiny button on the Pico whilst connecting a USB lead to the USB socket on the board that had already been plugged into my PC. Once connected the Pico appeared as a USB drive on my Kubuntu Linux desktop. All I then had to do was to copy the software file onto the drive. Once the software file is on the drive the Pico will reboot automatically and the little LED on the board will start to flash to show it has booted successfully. At this point I could safely unplug the USB cable.
The software for the RaspberryPi Pico is available for download below.
The I/O board comes with a new back panel for the HL2 to accommodate the extra connectors on the rear. Refit the top of the HL2 case and then attach the new rear panel using the original 4 counter sunk screws.
Supplied HL2 I/O board replacement rear panel fitted to the case
The final part of this project is to make the lead that will go from the HL2 rear DB9 ACC connector to the Xiegu XPA125B mini din ACC socket.
DB9 Pin 2 (BLACK) to Mini Din Pin 6 (GND)
DB9 Pin 6 (WHITE) to mini Din Pin 2 (PTT)
DB9 Pin 8 (RED) to Mini Din Pin 3 (Band Switching Voltage)
Below are a couple of screenshots from the Xiegu XPA125B user manual showing the Mini Din pin layout and the data interface connections for the amplifier.
Before I connected the lead to the two devices, I tested the end-to-end continuity of the lead to ensure all pins were correctly connected and that there were no shorts between any of the pins.
It’s important that the wires are connected to the correct pins on each end of the lead. Failure to ensure correct connection could cause damage to your HL2 and/or amplifier.
Once the lead had been tested, I connected it to both the Hermes Lite 2 and the Xiegu XPA125B amplifier. I also had to switch the amplifier band switching to AUTO.
Now when I change band on my HL2 in the PiHPSDR software the amplifier also changes band at the same time keeping the two devices in sync. No more manual band changing for me!
I hope this article is of use to other Hermes Lite 2 users who have purchased the Xiegu XPA125B but, have yet to setup auto band switching between the two devices.
Thanks to Steve, M0XVT for all the jumper information and the RaspberryPi Pico Software to get this all working.
UPDATE: The RaspberryPi Pico software originally came from Ramon, KP4RX. More information can found in this Google Groups article where he released the binary into the wild.
A full table of I/O resources available on the HL2 I/O board can be found on the KP4RX Guthub page.
The source code for the main.uf2 file above can be found at KP4RX.com
(This information is also for the Hermes Lite 2, Adalm Pluto, Pluto+ and LibreSDR)
During my RadioBerry build I started out using the version of PiHPSDR that was created just for the RadioBerry. The problem with this is that it is hard coded for a very small screen making it hard to use on a big screen since the user cannot resize the window dynamically.
I decided to look for a forked version of the PiHPSDR software that had the ability to change the window size to suit all use cases. During my search I stumbled across the DL1YCF fork of the source code that has some enhancements, one of which is the ability to change the display size.
In no time at all I had the source code downloaded and compiled only to find that it didn’t work with the RadioBerry. After some investigation I found that this was due to the fact that the RadioBerry software has compiled into it code that is used to access the GPIO pins on the RaspberryPi so that it can communicate with the RadioBerry HAT. This is fine except that the DL1YCF version of PiHPSDR also has code in it to use the GPIO pins. This of course causes a conflict and the net result is that nothing works.
Reading through the source code and Makefile I found that all I needed to do was to compile a version of PiHPSDR without GPIO support. This would then remove the conflict and allow the RadioBerry software to operate correctly.
To this end I put together a download/compile/install script for the DL1YCF version of PiHPSDR that will work on a RaspberryPi with a RadioBerry HAT and give the ability to resize the window to fit any size screen.
The script also works on a Linux Desktop PC running Ubuntu/Kubuntu/Linuxmint/Debian operating systems. (It will most likely work on other distro’s too but, these are all I have to hand currently). You can of course also use this software with a Hermes Lite 2 transceiver.
DL1YCF PiHPSDR running on RaspberryPi 4 with RadioBerry HAT on a large monitor
To install this enhanced version of PiHPSDR on your RaspberryPi/Desktop PC with GPIO support disabled, download the installation script below, unzip it and run it in a terminal on your RaspberryPi/Desktop PC in your home directory. (/home/<your-username>).
The script will download the latest source code from the DL1YCF github, disable the GPIO code and then compile and install it to your computer. If installing on a RaspberryPi it will create an icon on the desktop for you to use to start the software.
If installing on a PC then you will need to create your own desktop icon as the one created only works on a RaspberryPi. You can of course just start the software from the command line in a terminal. (My preferred method).
If you have a RaspberryPi 5 then I highly recommend that you run this version of PiHPSDR on it as it has a lot more computing power and handles using dual receive with ease. It will run on a Pi4 but, you will load the CPU more as it’s not as powerful as the later model Pi5.
The script will ask if you want to compile in SOAPYSDR support so that PiHPSDR will work with RTL-SDR, Adalm-Pluto, Pluto+ and LibreSDR. Enter Y to compile in support or N if you don’t need it.
For the last week or so I’ve been playing with a RadioBerry HAT for my RaspberryPi computer. The RadioBerry is a cut down version of the Hermes Lite 2 with just 20mW output power and separate TX and RX antenna ports. It’s a really neat little package that sits on top of a RaspberryPi4/5 and creates a neat little HF transceiver.
RadioBerry HAT
I initially started with the RadioBerry HAT on my Pi5 but, I soon realised that the software really doesn’t work well at all on the Pi5. I’m not 100% sure as to why but, for some reason it holds one core at 100% continuously. It seems that the RadioBerry software is single threaded. The end result is that on the Pi5 you cannot use a sample rate above 9600 before the IQ stream starts to stutter.
By contrast, installing the RadioBerry software onto a Pi4 it performs perfectly upto the maximum sample rate of 384000 without any stuttering. I’ll need to spend some time going through the source code to try and determine why it doesn’t work correctly on a Pi5.
Whilst going through the source I discovered that the developer has put some code in that collects data from the running computer and sends it to the developer’s website. Some of this data is then made public via his website, http://www.pa3gsb.nl/radioberry/api/read.php
One of the things displayed on the website is the Mac address of the RaspberryPi on which the RadioBerry is running. This is a security risk and should never be done!
The most annoying thing is that this is done without authorisation. The installation doesn’t state that it’s going to collect data every time you start your RaspberryPi computer nor does it offer the ability to opt out. It also doesn’t inform the user that it’s going to pass the data on to a third party. In some cases it even collects HAM Radio Callsign and location data and displays it on a public website, a clear breach of the UK/European Data Protection Law.
Finding spyware in open source software is really poor and something most open source developers would never consider doing.
To this end I have disabled the spyware in the version of the RadioBerry software that I am using and am making it available to everyone else to use via this blog.
So, to install the RadioBerry software you just need to download the installation script and run it in a terminal on your RaspberryPi computer.
The script will download the modified source code, compile it and install it on your RaspberryPi ready for you to use.
I encourage everyone that downloads the script and the source code to take a look at it and ensure you are happy with it. It’s important to know what you are running on your computer and what it does.
You can find the spyware code in the register.c file (It’s all commented out with “//” marks). The function now doesn’t pass any data at all to the public website.
I hope some of my readers who are experimenting with the RadioBerry transceiver find this useful.
I will soon be publishing an article on an enhanced version of PiHPSDR from DL1YCF to use with the the RadioBerry to complete the project.
Important Update:
There is an issue with the RadioBerry code that renders it useless if you use a kernel later than the version shown below:
Updating the O/S Kernel to any version later than the version shown above will stop the RadioBerry software from working. Recompiling of the code also fails due to the Kernel update and at the time of writing this cannot be fixed without a code rewrite by the original developer.
I also recommend that once you have built a working RadioBerry on a RaspberryPi 4 you should disable the automatic updates of the O/S to stop the system from failing in the future.
You can disable the automatic updates by entering the following commands into a terminal:
v2.0 comes with a bunch of new functionality that I think many will find useful. I’ve added a Manual Node Connect section that provides the functionality to enter a node number and connect to it, something I wanted to have from the outset but, saved for the second release.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Manual Node Connect View
I’ve also updated the the Hubs/Repeaters section so that it provides better global coverage of the AllStarLink network with new nodes in Australia, South Africa and the USA added to the default set.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Hubs/Repeaters View
In the Personal Nodes section of the app I’ve added my own node so, if you do download the app and use it, please connect to my node and say hello! I’d love to hear from people that are using the app and get your feedback.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Personal Nodes View
In the Test Nodes section there are now two parrot nodes for audio testing. iParrott is still my favourite however, I’ve also added the HubNet parrot as a second option.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Test Nodes View
There’s now a new ASL Information section that provides direct access to the network bubble map for your node, a keyed nodes list (Useful for finding nodes that are being used right now), an Active Nodes List and the Full Nodes List for the ASL network. Having access to this information means there really is no need to access Allmon/Supermon to find this information as it’s all available via the app.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Information View
Finally, the Manage Node section of the app also gets an update with the addition of a Disconnect All Nodes button. This comes in handy when you’re connected to a bunch of nodes and need to clear down quickly.
M0AWS AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 Manage Node View
As you can see there’s been quite a few changes to the app providing some new functionality whilst updating the previous version to make it even more useful. You can download the AllStarLink Control Dashboard v2.0 flow below.
To import the flow, open the Node-RED flow editor and import the flow from the burger menu. Once imported, double click the Get ASL Node Number node at the top of the flow, delete the credentials and then create new credentials for connecting to your RaspberryPi/SHARI AllStarLink node. Then go to each blue BigSSH Node in the flow and select your new credentials entry in the drop down list. Once this is done deploy the flow and you’re ready to go.
Note: If you have a v1.x version of the app already running you will need to either delete the flow or disable it by disabling all the trigger (inject) nodes and deploying so that the old and new apps aren’t trying to control the ASL node at the same time.
For more detailed information on how to deploy the app (v1.x/v2.0) from scratch please see my original article for the v1.0 deployment as it covers everything you will need to know.
Thanks to Steve, M0XVT for his help testing v2.0 of the AllStarLink Control Dashboard and getting it out into the wild so quickly.
I recently decided to look into a 2m/70cm FM radio for the shack for use on the local 2m/70cm repeaters and was considering the offerings from Yaesu and Icom however, the Wouxun KG UV-980PL caught my eye as it is a quad band, full duplex radio. Not knowing much about Wouxun radios I had to do some research to get an idea of what it’s like. Generally the radio gets very good reviews and most mention the excellent build quality.
There are two versions of the 980P radio, the 980PL that offers 6/4/2m and 70cm bands and the 980P that offers 10/6/2m and 70cm. The 4m is a band I’ve been wanting to try for some time and the 980PL with it’s 4m band coverage became even more appealing.
Wouxun KG UV-980PL Quad Band FM Duplex Transceiver
I decided to take a trip down to Martin Lynch and Sons (MLANDS), a good 2 hours or more drive for me, so that I could get hands on with the radios that I had been looking at.
I invited Alan, G1SQB along for the ride and a day out playing with radios as he lives 3 miles away and we often chat on air.
Arriving at the store we grabbed a hot brew and set about playing with the great selection of radios on display.
I initially looked at the Icom IC-2730E, a dual band full duplex transceiver that has been around for about 10 years and has good reviews. As expected the build quality is excellent and very easy to use. I found I was soon able to set up memories etc via the front panel controls. The only draw back is that it isn’t supported by the CHIRP programming software that I use. Other than that it certainly meets all the requirements for a 2m/70cm FM transceiver
Icom IC-2730E FM Duplex Transceiver
Next I moved on to the offerings from Yaesu including the FTM-500DE 2m/70cm transceiver. The colour screen is very nice and the menu system very easy to use however, the price is getting on for close to double that of the other radios and it doesn’t really offer anything more that interests me since I’m only looking for an analog radio.
Yaesu FTM-500DR dual band FM Transceiver
Sadly there wasn’t a Wouxun UV-980PL out on display and so I had to persuade the salesman to get one out of stock for me to play with. Unpacking the radio I was surprised at how good the build quality is, it really is comparable to the other radios that I had been looking at.
The Wouxun menu system is fairly easy to use once you’ve looked at the manual and got to grips the abbreviations used. The big plus is that this radio is CHIRP compatible with an optional programming cable (£19) and so loading the memories with repeaters etc will be extremely easy.
The Wouxun has dual receivers built in with a quad-plexer so, you can transmit on one band whilst listening to another band on the other receiver. One thing to note is that the 1st receiver covers all the bands, 6/4/2m and 70cm however, the 2nd receiver only covers 2m and 70cm so, it’s not possible to receive 4m and 6m at the same time. The radio also only has one antenna connection on the rear, would had been great if it had one connector for each receiver.
The really good thing about the Wouxun UV-980PL is that it comes with everything you will need, apart from the programming cable!
After much tinkering I decided to purchase the Wouxun KG UV-980PL, a Diamond V2000 6/2m and 70cm antenna plus 20m of Hyperflex-13 coax cable and connectors.
In the box you’ll find two mounting options for the removable head. There is a short connecting cable for use when the head is mounted directly on the radio body and a 5m long connecting cable for mounting the head remotely. This is really useful as I wanted to mount the head on a mic boom arm so that it’s easily accessible and didn’t clutter the desk space in the shack.
Wouxun KG UV-980PL head mounted on a Mic boom arm
Since the radio also comes with the mobile mount I’ve fixed the radio body on the wall behind the PC monitor out the way. This setup has proven to be extremely good as I can see what’s happening on the display at a glance and easily grab the mic if called.
Programming the radio memories is extremely quick and easy using CHIRP. I had the local repeaters and my AllStarLink node frequencies and offsets uploaded to the radio in no time at all and was soon on air.
Programming the memories on the Wouxun UV-980PL using CHIRP
The microphone that comes with the radio is extremely good. You can operate most of the controls on the radio directly from the mic with ease and it has a good feel in the hand. Audio reports have also been very good and there’s no need to change it.
I’ve not yet got the new Diamond V2000 antenna erected but, I’ve been using the radio with my homebrew 2m/70cm end fed vertical dipole and my 4m band end fed vertical dipole and am getting excellent results. I can access all the local repeaters using the lowest power output setting and only have to use the medium/high setting for the repeaters that are further afield.
On the 4m band the radio performs well and I’ve been surprised at the distances I’ve been able to cover even though my 4m antenna is only 6-7m above the ground currently.
A few days after I got the new Wouxun radio there was an ARISS event whereby a group of Girl Guides would be talking to Astronaut Sunita Williams aboard the ISS. This was a great opportunity to test the receive capability of the radio and so I setup ready for the pass. Using just my simple 2m/70cm end fed vertical dipole I got great reception as can be heard in the video below.
Overall I’m extremely pleased with the Wouxun KG UV-980PL quad band radio and considering it’s much cheaper than the offerings from the main radio manufacturers it’s well built and performs extremely well. If you’re looking for a simple, analog FM radio for 6/4/2m/70cms then you can’t beat it!
I’ve been working on squashing some bugs in my Node-RED AllStarLink Control Dashboard with the help of Steve, M0XVT which has resulted in a new version of the flow now being available for download below.
If you’re reading this and aren’t too sure what it is all about then, have a look at my original article detailing the Node-RED AllStarLink Control Dashboard that I developed and wrote about back in September 2024 and hopefully it’ll all make sense.
This new version of the flow resolves an issue whereby the dashboard used an incorrect node number for the node it connects to resulting in it not working unless a piece of code was changed. The update was a simple change to add a couple of nodes that connect to the RaspberryPi and read the Asterisk/AllStarLink node number from the asterisk configuration files at startup.
Node-RED AllStarLink Control Dashboard v1.2 additional sub flow
I also fixed another bug whereby the buttons could show a false connect on a button when the user connects to another node via AllMon2/Supermon instead.
This flow no longer has the blue spare button as it now connects to a node in Melbourne Australia.
Node-RED AllStarLink Control Dashboard v1.2
You can download the new, v1.2 updated flow below and import it to your Node-RED flow editor using the standard import tool from the burger menu in the flow editor.
NOTE: The info in this article is out of date and does not work with the latest version of AllStarLink. The Debian O/S it is based on is no longer in support.
Over the last couple of days in-between doing other things I’ve been writing and testing a BASH shell script that will completely configure a fully working AllStarLink node.
M0AWS – Coding the BASH script for the automated AllStarLink installation
To use the script you must already have your RaspberryPi (preferably a Pi 3b) connected to your LAN with full internet access using the Raspbian based version of the AllStarLink software downloadable from here.
The specific version I use is:
asl-2.0.0-beta.6-kc1kcc-20210324-rpi-armhf
I have tested the BASH script using this specific version of O/S only.
Once your RaspberryPi 3b is up and running, has full internet access and is accessible on your local LAN, using SSH login in as the user ‘repeater‘ using the password ‘allstarlink‘.
It’s important you only use this login to configure the node as this is the user the script is expecting to be run by. You must login via SSH as the SHARI device needs to be connected to the RaspberryPi 3b and you won’t be able to connect a keyboard and mouse at the same time. (If you are using two USB cables for the SHARI device then you can use a keyboard and mouse along with a monitor attached to your RaspberryPi instead of using SSH).
Once logged in as user repeater run the following wget command to download the zipped install script:
You are now ready to build your AllStarLink node. Before you run the script make sure you have your node number and node secret to hand. These are obtained from the AllStarLink portal.
Once you’ve got all your node information you can run the script using the following command:
./install.sh
The script will now take you through the full process of updating the operating system as necessary, installing all the required packages and software. It will then reboot the RaspberryPi and you will need to login and run the script a second time using the command above.
On the second run the script will install some python specific software, ask you to enter your callsign, node number and node secret and will then configure your node. The last thing it does is configure the Allmon2 and Supermon Web Admin websites. During this process it will ask you to enter a password twice for the Admin user for the two websites, make sure you make a note of this password as you will need it to login and control your node.
Once the node is configured it will be rebooted and you will then be able to connect to your node using your favourite web browser and the user admin and the password you set above.
To access the Allmon2 web-admin system use the following URL:
For those of you who prefer Supermon you an use the following URL:
http://your-RaspberryPi-IP-Address/supermon
M0AWS – Supermon Web Admin view
I have also pre-populated the Favorites button with a list of nodes that I use often. You can easily change these entries by editing the favorites.ini file in the /var/www/html/supermon directory as user root.
M0AWS – Supermon pre-populated Favourites drop down list
When you first login to your node via your web browser you’ll notice that it says your node isn’t in the database. You can update the database by using the following URL in your web browser:
Please note: This build is now deprecated and will no longer work. Please use the new AllStarLink 3 build process as documented on the AllStarLink website.
We’ve recently added a new room to the Matrix HAM Radio Space for Digital Voice modes as this was an area of interest that didn’t really fit into any of the other rooms.
The new Digital Voice room has attracted a lot of attention from members, with a lot of the focus being on the AllStarLink system. Michael, DK1MI built an AllStarLink node in the cloud for us all to use for Matrix Nets and so I decided I had to get in on the fun.
Jumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface Front Panel ViewJumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface Rear ViewJumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface stripped down View
The two USB connectors on the SHARI device are position such that they plug into two of the available 4 USB ports on the RaspberryPi without the need for cables. This keeps the whole solution together in one neat package.
Before you start you will need to obtain a node number and secret (password) from the AllStarLink Portal. To get this you will need to provide proof to the AllStarLink administrators that you are a licensed Amateur Radio (HAM) operator. This is done by uploading a copy of the first page of your HAM licence to the website for the admin team to check. This can take 24hrs to be completed so make sure you get this all done before trying to build your node. You cannot build a node successfully without a node number and secret.
Of course you will also need a transceiver that can operate on the 438.800Mhz frequency or other frequency of your choice on the 2m or 70cm HAM band.
You will also need to open port 4569 on your internet router and setup port forwarding to the IP Address that you will be using on your RaspberryPi node. It’s important to use a static IP Address on your RaspberryPi.
There are quite a few different Linux based operating system (O/S) images that are available for the RaspberryPi devices that have been specifically tailored for the AllStarLink node and include all the necessary software and library packages out the box.
Once downloaded you need to burn the ISO image onto a suitable SD card for your RaspberryPi. I use BalenaEtcher as it’s extremely quick and reliable at burning ISO images to SD cards.
Of course if you are a hardline Linux command line junkie you can always use dd to create the SD card.
Once you’ve got your O/S onto your SD card, slot it into your RaspberryPi making sure your SHARI device is connected to the two USB ports and then power it up. Make sure you have a good PSU for the RaspberryPi as the two devices together draw around 3A of current during the transmit cycle. (I use a 3.6A PSU from Amazon).
The default login for the Raspbian O/S is shown below. Login via SSH and configure your RaspberryPi for your local network. It’s important to use a static IP Address configured either directly on the RaspberryPi or via DHCP in your router.
Next you need to change directory into the asterisk config file directory using the command shown below:
cd /etc/asterisk
In this directory you will find all the default config files that come as part of the distro. For this build we’re not going to use them and so we need to move them out of the way ready for a set of config files that have already been configured correctly.
Using the following commands create a new directory, move into that new directory and then move all the unwanted configuration files into it:
mkdir ORIGINAL-CONF-FILES
cd ./ORIGINAL-CONF-FILES
mv ../*.conf ./
ls -la
cd ../
You should now be back in the /etc/asterisk directory which will now be empty apart from the custom directory which we left in place.
You now need to copy the correctly configured configuration files into the /etc/asterisk directory. Start by downloading the zip file containing the new configuration files
Download removed as deprecated.
Once downloaded, copy the .zip file into the repeater users home directory (/home/repeater) using either scp on the Linux command line or if using Windows you can use the FileZilla Client in SFTP mode using the login details above.
Once you have the .zip file in the repeater user’s home directory you need to copy the file into the /etc/asterisk directory as user root:
Next as user root, change directory into the /etc/asterisk directory and unzip the .zip file:
cd /etc/asterisk
unzip ./AllStarLink-Config-v3.zip
Once the file is unzipped you will have a directory called AllStarLink-Config in the /etc/asterisk directory. You now need to cd into the directory, copy all the files out of it into the /etc/asterisk directory leaving a copy in the AllStarLink-Config directory for future reference:
cd /etc/asterisk/AllStarLink-Config
cp ./* /etc/asterisk
cd /etc/asterisk
You now need to move a couple of files into the repeater users home directory using the following commands:
The gpioBASH script and configuration details were supplied by Mark, G1INU in the Digital Voice room on the Matrix. It adds the COS light functionality to the setup. The COS light will now light every time the SA818 hears RF on the input.
The next thing you need to do is configure the SA818 radio device in the SHARI. The script I used was originally from https://wiki.fm-funknetz.de/doku.php?id=fm-funknetz:technik:shari-sa818 all I’ve done is change the entries to switch off CTCSS and change the frequency to 438.800Mhz. Configuring the SA818 is done by running the SA818-running.pyPython programme that you moved into the repeater user home directory. Making sure you are still user root, run the following commands:
cd /home/repeater
./SA818-running.py
At this point your SHARI SA818 device will be configured to operate on 438.800Mhz and CTCSS will be disabled.
If you want to change the frequency or enable and set a CTCSS tone to access the node you will need to edit the Python programme using your favourite text editor and change the entries accordingly. Once changed rerun the program as shown above and your SHARI will be reconfigured to your new settings.
Next you need to move the allmon.ini.php file into the correct directory so that it enables access to the Allstar Monitor web page on the device so that you can manage connecting/disconnecting nodes. Use the following commands as user root to achieve this:
The allmon.ini.php file needs to have your node name entered into it to work correctly. As user root, change directory and edit the file using your favourite editor.
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
Using your text editor, search for the line starting [XXXXX] and change the XXXXX to your node number. Save the change and exit the file.
At this point you are almost complete, all that is left to do is add your node number and node secret into the appropriate configuration files in the /etc/asterisk directory.
Since I am a Linux command line junkie I use vi to edit all the configuration files on the command line as user root, but you can use any editor of your choice.
cd /etc/asterisk
Start with the extensions.conf file. Search for the line starting with NODE = and delete the XXXXX entry and insert your node number. Save the file and exit it.
Next you need to edit the iax.conf file. This time search for the line starting with register= and change the XXXXX for your node number and the YYYYYYYYYYYY for your node secret. Be careful not to accidentally delete any other characters in the lines otherwise it will corrupt the configuration file.
In the same file search for the two lines that start with secret = and change the YYYYYYYYYYYY for your node secret. Once you have changed both of the secret entries, save and exit the file.
The final file to edit is the rpt.conf file. Once again open the file using your favourite editor and search for the line starting with XXXXX = radio@127.0.0.1:4569/XXXXX, change the XXXXX entries for your node number making sure not to delete any other characters next to the XXXXX entries.
Further down in the same file there is a line that starts with [XXXXX], once again change the XXXXX for your node number making sure to keep the square brackets at each end of the node number as you edit it.
Finally move down to the very bottom of the file and find the two lines that start with /home/repeater/gpio, once again change the XXXXX entries for your node number.
The final thing to change in the rpt.conf file is to replace my callsign with your own callsign so that the node identifies itself correctly. Scroll through the file until you find the two lines shown below, delete M0AWS and add your own callsign instead making sure you keep all the spaces between words as shown below.
idrecording = |i DE M0AWS
idtalkover = |i DE M0AWS
Once this is done, save and exit the file. At this point your node should be fully configured and will only require a reboot to get it working.
As user root, reboot your raspi using the reboot command.
reboot
Once your raspi comes back online, login using SSH as user repeater and then become root user using the sudo command detailed above.
You now need to create the admin user password for the Allstar Monitor web page on the device. This is done using the following commands as user root:
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
htpasswd -c .htpasswd admin
You will be asked to enter a password twice for the admin user. Make sure you make a note of this user/password as you will need it to login to the web page.
Finally check that the controlpanel.ini.php file is in the /var/www/html/allmon2 directory:
ls -la /var/www/html/allmon2/controlpanel.ini.php
If the file isn’t shown in the directory, enter the following commands to create the file in the correct place as user root and then exit the SSH session:
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
cp ./controlpanel.ini.txt ./controlpanel.ini.php
cd
exit
Once this is done your configuration is complete, logout from the terminal session by entering exit once more and your SSH session will terminate.
Using your favourite web browser enter the IP Address of your raspi into the URL bar as shown below:
http://<Your-Raspi-IP>/allmon2
Note: remove the <> from the URL once you have entered the required information.
Once this is done you should be presented with your node control panel as shown below.
First visit to the AllStar Monitor Web Page
Login using Admin and the password you set above and you are now ready to start using your node.
It’s a good idea to connect to node 55553 which is a parrot test node to check your audio levels. You can do this by entering the node into the field at the top left and pressing the connect button.
M0AWS AllStarLink Node 61928 connected to 55553 Parrot
Once connected, tune your radio to 438.800Mhz FM and transmit a test message using your callsign and test123, or something similar. The parrot will then play your recording back to you so that you can hear how you sound. It will also comment on your audio level as to whether it is OK or not.
You are now connected to AllStarLink network and have the world at your finger tips. Below is a small list of nodes in the UK, Australia and America to get you started chatting with other HAMs via your node.
57881 Matrix HAM Radio Space AllStarLink Node (Hosted by Dk1MI)
55553 ASL Parrot for testing
41522 M0HOY HUBNet Manchester, UK
60349 VK6CIA 439.275 Perth, Western Australia
51077 VK6SEG South West Hub B Albany WA
2167 M0JKT FreeSTAR UK HUB 2 freestar.network
53573 NWAG NW AllStar Group Lancashire, UK
27339 East Coast Hub Wilmington NC USA
M0AWS AllStarLink Node 61928 sitting on the equipment rack
Thanks to Michael, DK1MI for building and hosting the Matrix HAM Radio Space AllStarLink Node (57881) and getting us all started in the world of AllStarLink!
We hope to be having regular Matrix Net’s on the node soon for all Matrix members and visitors. We’ll organise days/times via the Digital Voice room.
This solution has worked incredibly well from the outset and over time I’ve added extra functionality that I’ve found to be useful to enhance the overall setup.
The latest addition to the ground station solution is a Sennheiser Headset that I picked up for just £56 on Amazon (Much cheaper than the Heil equivalents at the HAM stores!) and have found it to be excellent. The audio quality from both the mic and the headphones is extremely good whilst being light and comfortable to wear for extended periods.
M0AWS – Sennheiser SC 165 Headset
To incorporate this into the ground station the headset is connected to my Kubuntu PC and the audio chain to the IC-705 is sent wirelessly using the latest version of WFView. This works extremely well. The receive audio comes directly from the GQRX SDR software to the headphones so that I have a full duplex headset combination.
Audio routing is done via pulse audio on the Kubuntu PC and is very easy to setup.
Since I no longer have a mic connected to the IC-705 directly I found that I needed a way to operate the PTT wirelessly and this is where the latest addition to my NodeRed QO-100 Dashboard comes in.
Adding a little functionality to the NodeRed flow I was able to create a button that toggles the IC-705 PTT state on and off giving me the ability to easily switch between receive and transmit using a simple XMLRPC node without the need for a physical PTT button.
M0AWS – Additional NodeRed PTT Flow
The PTT state and PTT button colour change is handled by the Toggle PTT function node shown in the above flow. The code to do this is relatively simple as shown below.
M0AWS – NodeRed Toggle PTT Function to change button colour
The entire QO-100 Dashboard flow has grown somewhat from it’s initial conception but, it provides all the functionality that I require to operate a full duplex station on the QO-100 satellite.
M0AWS – NodeRed QO-100 Dashboard complete flow
This simple but, effective PTT solution works great and leaves me hands free whilst talking on the satellite or the HF bands when using the IC-705. This also means that when using my IC-705 it only requires the coax to be connected, everything else is done via Wifi keeping things nice and tidy in the radio shack.
M0AWS – Updated NodeRed QO-100 Dashboard with PTT button
The image above shows the QO-100 ground station in receive cycle with the RX/TX VFO’s in split mode as the DX station was slightly off frequency to me. The PTT button goes red when in TX mode just like the split button shown above for visual reference.
As you can probably tell, I’m a huge fan of NodeRed and have put together quite a few projects using it, including my HF Bands Live Monitoring web page.
More soon …
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