I’ve been making a few improvements to my QO-100 Node Red Dashboard whilst waiting for the 2.4Ghz hardware to arrive. I’ve added the ability to split the RX and TX VFOs so that I can tune away from the TX frequency for working split stations or for tuning to slightly off frequency stations. I also added a series of tuning buttons to the top of the GQRX side of the dashboard to enable easy tuning using the trackball connected to my Kubuntu PC. This worked well but, I really missed having a real VFO knob like a conventional radio.
As I had a Griffin Powewrmate USB VFO from a previous SDR radio I added it to the flow as well so that I had a physical VFO knob for the SDR receiver. Details on how I got it working using evtest and a simple BASH script are in the Griffin Powermate article.
M0AWS QO-100 Node Red Dashboard Flow
The Node Red flow is looking a little busier with the addition of split mode and the Griffin Powermate USB VFO which has really enhanced the useability of the solution. It’s very impressive what can be achieved with Node Red with a little imagination. You really don’t need to be a heavy weight programmer to make things work.
M0AWS QO-100 Node Red Dashboard as of 07/06/23
I also put together some code to calculate the S Meter reading from the dBFS data the GQRX SDR software generates. It’s not 100% accurate but, it’s close enough to be useful.
On the IC-705 side of the Dashboard I also now display the 2.4Ghz uplink frequency so that it’s available for logging.
So with the QO-100 Dashboard ready to go live I have now started putting together the 2.4Ghz transmit path of the ground station. I have the 2.4Ghz transverter and matching 12w amplifier from DXPatrol, the IceCone Helix 2.4Ghz antenna from Nolle Engineering, some LMR-400-UF and connectors from Barenco and an appropriate water proof enclosure from Screwfix to fit all the kit into however, I’m now being held up by one simple little SMA male to SMA male connector that I need to connect the transverter and amp together.
M0AWS Waterproof enclosure from ScrewfixM0AWS Laying out the 2.4Ghz TX kit in the enclosureM0AWS LMR-400-UF coax from Barenco
The SMA connector has been ordered but, is taking a month of Sundays to arrive! Hopefully it’ll arrive soon and I’ll finally get on the QO-100 satellite and start enjoying the fun.
I’ve been gradually building my QO-100 ground station over the last few months and have had the receive path working for some time now. One of the things I really miss with the Funcube Dongle Pro+ (FCD) SDR is a real VFO knob for changing frequency.
My QO-100 Node Red dashboard is configured so that I can have the FCD track the uplink frequency from the IC-705 but, sometimes I use the FCD without the IC-705 in the shack and so a physical VFO would be handy.
Many years ago when I lived in France (F5VKM) I had a Flexradio Flex-3000 SDR, a great radio in it’s time and one that gave me many hours of enjoyment. One addition I bought for that station was a Griffin Technology Powermate VFO knob. It worked extremely well with the PowerSDR software for the Flex-3000 and I used it for many years.
Many years later I’m back in the UK and much of my equipment is packed away in the attic, including the Griffin Technology Powermate VFO.
I decided to dig it out and see if I could get it working with GQRX SDR software. Sadly I couldn’t get it working with GQRX however, I did find a way of getting it working with Node Red and thus could add it to my QO-100 Node Red Dashboard and then control GQRX with it via a simple Node Red flow.
Griffin Technology Powermate VFO
Plugging the Powermate VFO into my Kubuntu PC it wasn’t immediately recognised by the Linux O/S. After a little searching I found the driver on Github. I added the PPA to my aptitude sources and installed the driver using apt.
Once installed the default config for the Powermate device is to control the default audio device volume. To make the device available for use as a VFO knob you need to change the configuration so that the default setting is disabled. To do this is relatively easy, just edit the config file using your favourite command line editor (Vi/Vim in my case) and add the following entry.
vi /etc/powermate.toml
# Entry to control HDMI volume with Powermate
#sink_name = "alsa_output.pci-0000_01_00.1.hdmi-stereo"
# Set powermate not to work with volume control
sink_name = ""
As shown above, comment out the default “sink_name” entry (Yours may be different depending on audio device in your PC) and add in the Powermate “sink_name” entry that effectively assigns it to nothing.
Once this is done, save the file and exit your editor and then reboot the PC.
Next you’ll need to install a small program called evtest.
sudo apt install evtest
To check the evtest program has installed correctly, plugin your Powermate VFO to any available USB port and run the following command in a terminal.
evtest /dev/input/powermate
Turning the Powermate knob you should see output on the screen showing the input from the device. You should also see BTN events for each press of the Powermate device.
Input driver version is 1.0.1
Input device ID: bus 0x3 vendor 0x77d product 0x410 version 0x400
Input device name: "Griffin PowerMate"
Supported events:
Event type 0 (EV_SYN)
Event type 1 (EV_KEY)
Event code 256 (BTN_0)
Event type 2 (EV_REL)
Event code 7 (REL_DIAL)
Event type 4 (EV_MSC)
Event code 1 (MSC_PULSELED)
Properties:
Testing ... (interrupt to exit)
Event: time 1685816662.086666, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.086666, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816662.318638, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.318638, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816662.574615, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value -1
Event: time 1685816662.574615, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816663.670461, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816663.670461, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816664.030421, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816664.030421, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816664.334389, type 2 (EV_REL), code 7 (REL_DIAL), value 1
Event: time 1685816664.334389, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816665.334255, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 1
Event: time 1685816665.334255, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816665.558230, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 0
Event: time 1685816665.558230, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816666.030161, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 1
Event: time 1685816666.030161, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
Event: time 1685816666.182151, type 1 (EV_KEY), code 256 (BTN_0), value 0
Event: time 1685816666.182151, -------------- SYN_REPORT ------------
At this point you’re ready to stop evtest (CTRL-C) and then create the following little BASH shell script that Node Red will run to collect the O/P from the Powermate USB device.
#!/bin/bash
###############################################
# Griffin Technology Powermate control script #
# for Node Red. #
# #
# 04/06/23 - M0AWS - v0.1 #
# #
###############################################
VAL="1"
echo "STEP-1Hz"
/usr/bin/evtest /dev/input/powermate | while read LINE
do
case $LINE in
*"(REL_DIAL), value 1") echo "$VAL"
;;
*"(REL_DIAL), value -1") echo "-$VAL"
;;
*"(BTN_0), value 1") case $VAL in
"1") VAL="10"
echo "STEP-10Hz"
;;
"10") VAL="100"
echo "STEP-100Hz"
;;
"100") VAL="1000"
echo "STEP-1Khz"
;;
"1000") VAL="10000"
echo "STEP-10Khz"
;;
"10000") VAL="1"
echo "STEP-1Hz"
;;
esac
;;
esac
done
Once the BASH script is copied and pasted into a file called powermate.sh you need to make it executable by using the following command.
chmod 700 ./powermate.sh
If you now run the shell script in a terminal you’ll see a similar output to that shown below from the device when used.
As you can see above the shell script outputs a positive or negative number for VFO tuning and changes the VFO step size each time the Powermate is depressed.
Getting this output from the BASH shell script into Node Red is really simple to achieve using just 3 or 4 nodes.
In the Node Red development UI create the following nodes.
Griffin Powermate Node Red Nodes
The first node in the flow is a simple inject node, here I called it trigger. This sends a timestamp into the next node in the flow at startup to set the flow running.
The Griffin Powermate node is a simple exec node that runs the script we created above.
M0AWS Powermate exec node
Configure the node as shown above and connect it to the inject node that’s used as a trigger. Note: Change “user” in the Command field shown above to that of your username on your Linux PC)
Once done create the third node in the flow, a simple switch node and configure as shown below.
Switch Node for Powermate
The switch node has two outputs, the top one is a text output that is fed into a text field to show the current step size of the Powermate device and the lower output is the numeric output that must be fed into your VFO control flow so that the VFO value is incremented/decremented by the amount output by the Powermate device.
I’ve found the Griffin Technology Powermate USB device works extremely well with Node Red and GQRX that I use for controlling the FCD SDR radio and it’s now part of my QO-100 ground station build.
M0AWS QO-100 Dashboard with Powermate Step Display at bottom
As shown above you can see the Powermate Step size at the bottom of the dashboard, this text changes each time the Powermate device is depressed and will set a step size of 1Hz, 10Hz, 100Hz, 1Khz, 10Khz in a round-robin fashion.
The next stage of the build is the 2.4Ghz transmit path. I now have all the necessary hardware and so this part of the build can finally commence.
Over the long bank holiday weekend I started putting together my QO-100 ground station. To start with I’ve concentrated solely on the receive path. I’ll start the transmit path once I have the receive path operational at a satisfactory level.
A few weeks ago I purchased a 1.1m off-set dish antenna and a Bullseye LNB. These have been sat in my garage waiting for the weather to improve so that I could start the build in the dry.
QO-100 Dish MountThrough wall bolt
Fortunately we’ve had a mini-summer for the last 2 days and so I started work on getting the dish mount built. Using some timber from the local saw mill I made a braced 3m tall post which I screwed to the side of the cabin to provide a stable fixing platform. I used a couple of threaded bars to bolt through the walls of the cabin to ensure a solid fixing.
Next I mount the metal dish bracket to the top of the wooden post taking the total height up to around 3.2m above ground. This gives plenty of head clearance down below.
Next I assembled the dish and and attached it to the metal dish bracket at the top of the wooden post.
QO-100 1.1m dish mounted on the 3.2m AGL fixing
Attaching and cabling the Bullseye LNB was an easy job. I used some high quality coax cable that I purchase from the Satellite Superstore when I purchase the dish. I also had to set the LNB skew to -17.8 degrees. The marking on the LNB are tiny and go up in fives and so it’s pretty much impossible to get exactly -17.8 degrees so I turned it to 15 and then a tiny bit. It was as close I could get it!
Next I needed the information on where to point the dish. Fortunately there is a great web app on the BATC website where you can move a pin on a map to your location and all the information you need to align the dish is automagically calculated for you.
Armed with this info I set about aligning the dish. Getting it as close as possible I lightly locked off the dish and continued getting the coax in to the radio room so that I could connect it to my Funcube Dongle Pro+ (FCD) SDR receiver. Since the LNB needs a 12v DC feed I had to put inline a “Bias Tee” unit. This unit allows you to inject 12v onto the coax going up to the LNB but, stops it from coming back into the receiver. I used a Bias Tee that I purchased from Amazon with the Bullseye LNB.
Bias Tee mounted under the station desk
Connecting the coax to my Funcube Dongle Pro+ I was really pleased to see that I was receiving signals from the satellite perfectly well. I decided to take my laptop up onto the roof of the cabin and see if I could improve the reception further. To my amazement with very tiny changes in elevation and azimuth I was able to improve the QO-100 beacon signal by a further 10dB.
Being pleased with the dish alignment I started to tighten it so that it couldn’t move in the wind. Unfortunately this caused the dish to move a tiny amount which reduced the signal strength. I loosened the bolts off again and realigned the dish once more. This time when I tightened the clamps I did it a bit at a time on each bolt working my way round them so that the dish didn’t move. Doing it this way I still lost 1dB off the QO-100 beacon signal due to tiny amounts of movement but, decided I could live with the 1dB reduction.
QO-100 dish successfully mounted & aligned with HF antennas in the background
Below is a very short video clip showing a German station talking on the QO-100 satellite. As you can see the signal is nice and strong and extremely clear. I did find that the output from the LNB was actually too much for the FCD SDR and so I reduced the LNA setting in GQRX to 0dB. This reduced the background noise level considerably as the receiver was no longer being overloaded and made the signals much more prevalent above the noise floor.
Short video clip showing signal clarity from the QO-100 Satellite
I’m really pleased at the performance of the receive path and have now ordered the 2.4Ghz hardware from DXPatrol and Nolle Engineering so that I can build the transmit path.
I have also made some improvements to my QO-100 Node Red Dashboard so that I can work split on the satellite using my IC-705 and FCD SDR.
QO-100 Node Red Dashboard with ‘Split’ capability
Once the 2.4Ghz hardware arrives I’ll update the blog with progress.
I’ve now completed the GQRX Receive and Icom IC-705 Transmit dashboard in Node Red. It was a fun project to put together and needed some javascript coding to get the functionality I wanted but, I got there in the end.
M0AWS QO-100 GQRX/IC-705 control dashboard
The dashboard looks fairly simple but, there is a lot behind the scenes to get it to this stage.
On the left is the Icom IC-705 transmit control panel. It shows the transmit frequency, power output and SWR reading. The SWR is so that I can check that the input into the 2.4Ghz transverter doesn’t have any connectivity issues. The “S0” will actually display the S Meter reading when the IC-705 is being used as a normal transceiver rather than being in QO-100 Duplex mode as shown above where the GQRX app and Funcube Dongle SDR are being used as the receiver.
The GQRX side of the dashboard shows the downlink frequency which tracks the uplink frequency of the VFO on the IC-705. This will ensure that the Funcube Dongle Pro+ SDR receiver will always be on the correct downlink frequency relative to the uplink frequency, thus I should always be able to hear my own signal coming from the QO-100 satellite.
Once taken out of QO-100 mode the two radios can be used independently on any of the HAM bands and can be switched using the buttons on the dashboard.
I also coded in a simple memory facility where a frequency can be stored in Node Red and recalled later on both the transmit and receive sides.
Looking at the dashboard it all looks simple and straight forward however, if you look at the Node Red flow it becomes obvious that this isn’t the case.
QO-100 Dashboard Flow in the Node Red Editor (Click for larger image)
There’s a lot to the flow to get the information from the receiver and transmitter so that it can be presented on the dashboard. There’s also some code to convert between Rigctl protocol used by the GQRX application and XMLRPC used by the IC-705 via FLRig and WFview. I had to also code around a bug in the Node Red XMLRPC node whereby you have to add 0.1 onto the VFO frequency for it to be passed onto the radio otherwise the information is never sent. This was a real pain of a bug to find but, with a little experimentation I found the problem and managed to code around it. The strange thing about this is that the 0.1 added onto the frequency isn’t actually passed onto the radio via the XMLRPC node, it just has to have that on input otherwise it doesn’t work at all. A very strange bug and hopefully one that will be fixed by the node developer in future releases.
All that is left to do now is add the temperature sensors dashboard to complete the dashboard. These haven’t arrived yet and so I’ve not been able to create the necessary flow to collect the data from them.
Hopefully this coming week the weather will improve and I’ll start getting the dish antenna up and the get the receive side working.
UPDATE: Further development of my QO-100 Dashboard has taken place, you can read all about it here.
Whilst I’ve been waiting for the weather to improve so that I can get my QO-100 dish antenna up I’ve been working on my QO-100 Node Red dashboard.
The idea of the dash board is to bring together the operating of the receiver and transmitter into one control centre so that the two separate devices are able to communicate and behave as if they were actually one device, like a transceiver rather than being individual components.
Ideally I would like to have the transmitter and receiver talking to each other such that when the VFO on the transmitter is incremented/decremented the receiver VFO also moves by the same amount.
By doing this the receiver VFO should always be in the right place on the 10Ghz band to hear my 2.4Ghz uplink signal and of course, any station coming back to my CQ calls.
So far I’ve only been working on the receive part of the Node Red flow, it’s certainly been a lot of fun getting it put together.
I control my Funcube Dongle Pro+ (FCD) using GQRX SDR on my Kubuntu PC. This software is working extremely well with the FCD and I’m happy with the level of functionality it offers.
GQRX SDR has the ability built in to control the SDR via remote TCP connection using RIGCTL protocol. Currently there isn’t a RIGCTL node available for Node Red so I have written a number of Javascript function nodes that provide the appropriate functionality in conjunction with a standard Node Red TCP node. This is working extremely well on the local LAN in the radio room and is proving to be very stable and responsive.
M0AWS QO-100 Node Red Flow – Receive Section
The flow for the receive section of the dashboard looks fairly complicated but, in reality it’s really not too difficult to get to grips with. The receive flow provides the facility to switch bands, switch modes, change receiver filter band width, display a realtime signal strength meter, receive +/- clarifier in 10/100/1000Hz increments and put the receiver into QO-100 mode where the SDR VFO is tuned to 739.550Mhz whilst the dashboard VFO shows the QO-100 downlink frequency in the 10Ghz band. This is all working very well and I’m happy with the initial result.
M0AWS QO-100 Receive Dashboard in QO-100 mode
I now need to start work on the transmit side of the QO-100 dashboard and get communications between my IC-705 transceiver and the FCD SDR working via Node Red. This could be a little more challenging as it will involve communicating with the IC-705 via WFView over wifi.
I’ve been chasing the DX on the HF bands using FT8 for a while now and I have to say it’s been very successful however, it does get rather boring after a while just exchanging SNR reports and nothing else. I noticed that my time spent in the shack was getting less and less, not a good sign after all the work I’d put into building the new radio shack.
Since there’s not a lot of CW on the bands these days (everyone is on FT8) I thought I’d give JS8CALL a go.
Initially I started with trying to get JS8CALL working on my Kubuntu PC to my Icom IC-705 wirelessly. This turned out not to be as straight forward as I’d hoped but, I persevered.
I found that to communicate with the IC-705 via WFview wirelessly I needed to use FLRig as a go between. I installed FLRig from the Ubuntu repo’s only to find it’s an old version that doesn’t have support for the IC-705. Downloading the IC-705.xml file didn’t help either so I uninstalled it and headed to the source forge website to grab the source code for the latest version of FLRig.
Once I had the right development libraries installed compiling the code was easy enough and I soon had FLRig talking to the IC-705 via WFview wirelessly from my Kubuntu PC.
My first JS8 QSO was with Jonny, SM5COI in Sweden on the 20m band, using just 2.5w I had a very reliable link from my 20m band EFHW vertical antenna to his 20m band yagi antenna.
I also worked GM0DHD/P via OH8XAT using the relay capability built into JS8CALL, it works incredibly well and allows you to work the stations that you cannot hear directly, very useful!
Later in the morning Jonny, SM5COI emailed me asking for a sked on the 40m band later in the afternoon, of course I agreed and decided that I’d also get my MacBook Pro setup with JS8CALL so I could give my Yaesu FTDX10 a spin on JS8 mode.
Installing and configuring JS8CALL on my MacBook Pro was much easier and I had it fully operational in minutes.
The sked went well on 40m and it was good to get Jonny on another band.
With 3 JS8 QSOs in the log it’s great to be using a digital mode again that allows you to have a good chat with other radio HAMs around the world. I think this may become my preferred digital mode going forward.
Since purchasing my Icom IC-705 radio I’ve only used it on the HF bands. Since the IC-705 is a “shack-in-a-box” I thought it was about time I ventured up onto the VHF/UHF bands and add another string to my bow.
Since I don’t have an antenna for these two bands I’d need to build something. I’m not really interested in DXing on the VHF/UHF bands as I’d need a yagi or two, a rotator and would need to get the entire setup up high on the chimney on the house.
We’re very fortunate in that there are a good many repeaters on VHF/UHF in East Anglia with quite a few being well within range of my QTH.
So I decided to go with a simple vertical antenna of some sort that I could easily attach to the top of a 10m spider pole and pop up in the garden without too much hassle.
The simplest of all antennas to build for any band is an end fed vertical dipole. It’s made purely from a piece of coax cable, you can’t get much simpler.
Using some dimensions I found online I unrolled a length of RG58U and set about cutting it to resonance for the two bands.
To start I measured out 910mm of RG58U and put a piece of tape around the cable at the 910mm point. I then stripped the top 460mm of the outer and braid from the coax so that the inner wire and plastic insulation was exposed. This then left 450mm of coax with the braid still in place to make up the 2nd half of the vertical dipole.
At the 910mm marker I wound the coax 9 times around a 27mm former to create a choke balun. I taped the coil up to ensure it kept it’s shape, removed it from the former and then used a few zip ties to hold it in place.
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole Diagram
The diagram above aids in visualisation of the make up of the antenna that is made from a single piece of RG58U coax cable.
Choke Balun made from 9 turns of RG58U on a 27mm former
I next wound some electrical tape around the point on the antenna where the outer insulation and braid ended so that it would stop moisture getting into the rest of the coax and causing problems in the future. I also put a bit of electrical tape across the top of the end of the wire to stop moisture getting into the inner wire and then a piece of electrical tape around the wire to ensure it was fully sealed.
Electrical tape wound around the point where the outer braid finishes
At this point the antenna was complete! It literally took a few minutes to make. I could now either cut the coax a few centimetres from the bottom of the coil and fit a PL259 or just continue the coaxial cable back into the shack and fit a PL259 on the end. I decided to go with the latter as it’s one less connection to make.
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole taped to the top of a 10m spiderpole
Once complete, I taped the antenna to the top of a 10m spider pole and then ran the rest of the coax back into the shack and soldered on a PL259 connector.
Raising the spider pole up to its maximum length put the antenna some 10m up above the ground. Hopefully this will give me a relatively clear path to the local repeaters.
Plugging the antenna into the IC-705 and checking the SWR I found it was <1.2:1 across the entire 2m band and <1.5:1 across most of the 70cm band. It was perfect for what I wanted!
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole up 10m on a Spiderpole
I configured the local repeaters into the the IC-705 memories so that I could easily switch from one repeater to the next with all the appropriate tone and duplex frequency shifts set at the touch of a button.
My local 2m repeater GB3PO comes in at 5/9+10dB without any preamp and the local 70cm repeater GB3IH comes in at 5/9+5dB without any preamp. I was really pleased with the results and set about having a chat with other local HAMs on the local repeaters. It’s been a while since I’ve used the mic on this radio and it made a nice change!
To my surprise I found I could get into far more repeaters than I ever imagined. GB3NB in Norwich is 5/8 as are a number of repeaters down in Essex. This gives me quite a scope for chatting on the VHF/UHF bands via the repeater network.
To my surprise I can also hear ON0WV in Brugge Belgium, unfortunately it’s on the same frequency as the local 2m GB3PO repeater and so often gets drowned out completely but, it’s good to know that when there’s a lift in propagation I should be able to get into the near continent without too much hassle.
If you’re looking to build a simple but, effective 2m/70cm vertical for local repeater access then I highly recommend making an end fed vertical dipole. It only takes a few minutes to cut the cable to length, remove the outer sheath and braid and wind the choke balun, it really couldn’t be any easier.
This new radio from Icom looks like it’ll make the SHF bands much more accessible to the average Amateur Radio enthusiast. Prices wise I can’t see it being cheap, it’s going to be a top shelf device for sure, especially if you purchase the optional 10Ghz transverter as well.
With the optional 10Ghz transverter it’ll certainly be an impressive piece of kit for any HAM radio station.
It will be interesting to see if it has enough output power to be able to get into the QO-100 geostationary satellite that sits over Africa. If so, this could really open up the QO-100 service to many more radio enthusiasts within the footprint of the bird.
Now that I’ve got my new radio shack up and running I decided to give my Icom IC-705 QRP rig an outing and see if I could work a distance of 2000 miles with 1w output.
This is something I’ve been wanting to do for a while but, only being able to sit at the picnic table in the garden or in the summer wasn’t particularly conducive to a long stint on the radio.
Icom IC-705 wirelessly connected to my MacBook Pro
For this challenge I decided to use FT4 or FT8, whichever was active on the bands. This is a great mode for QRP operations and can get a tiny signal through when other more traditional modes fail.
I used both my EFHW vertical for 20m/10m and my EFHW vertical for 30m that can also be tuned on most of the other HF bands too. This gave me most of the HF bands for the challenge.
Initially I worked a lot of stations in the 600-700 mile range, conditions weren’t brilliant and there was a lot of deep QSB.
My first notable distance QSO was with YO4DG near Mangalia Romania at 1383 miles, this equates to 0.72mW/Mile, my lowest mW/Mile achievement up until this point.
Not long afterwards I saw SV8DCY on the WSJTX waterfall, I wasn’t sure if he’d hear me or not but, I gave a call. To my surprise he came back and became the longest distance QSO for a short time. At 1485 Miles to Kalloni Lesvos Island, Greece this equates to a new low of 0.67mW/Mile.
I then went on to work a bunch of stations in the 1000 miles or less range for a while as conditions on the bands were up and down. It’s amazing how many times I got an answer from a station only for them to disappear completely before the QSO was completed.
The next contact of note was with CU3HN in the Azores, 1713 Miles at 0.58mW/Mile, a new lowest mW/Mile record set. it’s amazing how far you can get a signal with such a tiny amount of power.
RV6F in the Stavropol region of Russia was the next big mile marker, 1932 miles at 0.51mW/Mile. It took a number of attempts to get the QSO to complete as we kept losing each other due to the deep QSB that was between us on the 20m band but, with a little patience and persaverance we eventually got the QSO to complete and it was in the log.
At this point I decided to switch over to the 10m band to see if it had opened up to more than just Europe. When I checked earlier there were only European stations being heard, most being well under 1000 miles. Sure enough the band had indeed opened up and I was hearing stations out to the east that were in excess of 2000 miles.
PSKReporter map showing signals heard on the 10m band
After tuning up and listening for a bit my first call was to RL9F in Perm Russia. This was the one that I’d been looking for, 2084 miles at 0.47mW/Mile this was the one that could complete the challenge.
After a few failed attempts due to deep QSB we eventually got a complete QSO in the log finishing the challenge.
2000 miles using 1w is a lot of fun, frustrating at times when you’re being heard by stations on the east coast USA but, none are answering your reply to their CQ calls.
PSKReporter has proven invaluable, being able to see who can hear you makes a big difference when trying to eek out the last mile when using next to no power.
In total 31 stations were worked over a 9 hour period, not huge numbers but, for many an M0AWS call sign isn’t exotic enough to answer and so many of my calls to stations were ignored. Sad really.
You can view all the log entries for the 2000 Mile 1 Watt challenge on my WSJTX Log.
So, what next? Well I guess it has to be 3000 miles or more using just 1w from my trusty Icom IC-705.
Screenshot showing WFView, FLRig and FLDigi all working wirelessly with my IC-705
In my “IC-705 Going Wireless with Apple Mac Computers” article I came across an issue whereby I couldn’t enter the correct path into FLRig to get the application to talk to WFView for CAT control of the IC-705 radio. I’m glad to say that I have now resolved this issue and detail it below.
Upon further inspection it appears that WFView uses a different /dev/ttys00x port each time it is started. It seems to round robin on ports 001 to 006. It’s quite clever in that it doesn’t actually directly use the port, each time the WFView app is started it creates a softlink to the next port after the one it last used.
The softlink is created with the same name each time the app is started but, it just points to the next /dev/ttys00x port available.
In my WFView setup I selected the first virtual serial port in the drop down list and so this soft link (AKA Symbolic link) gets created each time the WFView app is started.
Above soft link used by WFView (Replace “username” with your username)
The problem with FLRig is that it won’t allow you to type in this path to the serial port field, it only has a drop down list that doesn’t include this path.
The way around this is to edit the settings file IC-705.prefs in the .flrig folder in your home directory and manually enter the path to the correct field.
In the file there is an entry that starts with xcvr_serial_port: you just need to add the long path from WFView after the colon on the same line as shown below.
NOTE: Change username to your username as shown in the virtual serial port field in the WFView settings tab.
Once you’ve edited the file, save and close it and then start WFView and let it connect to the IC705 and then start FLRig. You’ll find it now connects to WFView directly and gains CAT control of the radio without issue.
You shouldn’t need to ever edit the IC-705.prefs file again as the settings are stored permanently. It should just work each time you start the FLRig app.
To get the frequency display on FLDigi just go into settings and switch on the FLRig CAT control, it will get all the data from FLRig and present it as shown in the screenshot above.
More soon …
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