Yesterday morning I ventured up onto the 20m band and to my surprise, found that the band was open to inter-G, unusually short skip for the 20m band.
Wanting to take advantage of the conditions I kicked off with a QSO with David, MI0AIH in Cookstown Northern Ireland. With 59+ signals both ways, it was like being on 40/60/80m with a crystal clear path between us.
Next was GB0BBF operating POTA GB-0619, again 59 both ways and a really easy contact.
My third contact was with Aled, MW0UPH who was parked up in his car on a hill in North Wales. The path between us was incredibly good. With 59 signals both ways and an FM like arm chair copy, we chatted for a few minutes making the most of the short skip.
Aled very kindly made a quick video of our conversation and sent a copy over to me to watch. It’s always nice to hear what you sound like on the other end.
M0AWS as heard by MW0UPH on the 20m Band
Unfortunately I didn’t think to make a video of the conversation at my end but, it was exactly the same, crystal clear arm chair copy, just like a 2m FM contact.
It was great fun working UK stations on a band that I would normally only ever hear EU and DX stations. It was interesting to note that Inter-G on 40m was really poor at the same time.
I’ve got a couple of old RaspberryPi computers on the shelf in the shack and so decided it was time for me to put one of them to good use. The first model on the shelf is the oldest and is one of the very first RaspberryPi 1 computers that was released. (It’s the one with the yellow analog video signal output on the board!). This particular model is extremely slow but, I hang onto it just as a reminder of the first SBC in the line.
The second one is a RaspberryPi 2, a quad core machine that is only slightly faster than the first model but, it’s powerful enough to run HAM Clock.
It didn’t take long to install a vanilla Raspbian Desktop O/S and get it configured on the local LAN. I installed a few packages that I like to have available on all my Linux machines and then started on the HAM Clock install.
The first thing I needed to do was install the X11 development library that is required to compile the HAM Clock binary. To do this, open a terminal and enter the command below to install the package.
sudo apt install libx11-dev
You will need to type in your password to obtain root privileges to complete the installation process and then wait for the package to be installed.
The HAM Clock source code is available from the HAM Clock Website under the Download tab in .zip format. Once downloaded unzip the file and change directory into the ESPHamClock folder ready to compile the code.
cd ~/Downloads/ESPHamClock
Once in the ESPHamClock directory you can run a command to get details on how to compile the source code.
make help
This will check your system to see what screen resolutions are available and then list out the options available to you for compiling the code as shown below.
The following targets are available (as appropriate for your system)
hamclock-800x480 X11 GUI desktop version, AKA hamclock
hamclock-1600x960 X11 GUI desktop version, larger, AKA hamclock-big
hamclock-2400x1440 X11 GUI desktop version, larger yet
hamclock-3200x1920 X11 GUI desktop version, huge
hamclock-web-800x480 web server only (no display)
hamclock-web-1600x960 web server only (no display), larger
hamclock-web-2400x1440 web server only (no display), larger yet
hamclock-web-3200x1920 web server only (no display), huge
hamclock-fb0-800x480 RPi stand-alone /dev/fb0, AKA hamclock-fb0-small
hamclock-fb0-1600x960 RPi stand-alone /dev/fb0, larger, AKA hamclock-fb0
hamclock-fb0-2400x1440 RPi stand-alone /dev/fb0, larger yet
hamclock-fb0-3200x1920 RPi stand-alone /dev/fb0, huge
For my system 1600×960 was the best option and so I compiled the code using the command as follows.
make hamclock-1600x960
It’s no surprise that it takes a while to compile the code on such a low powered device. I can’t tell you how long exactly as I went and made a brew and did a few other things whilst it was running but, it took a while!
Once the compilation was complete you then need to install the application to your desktop environment and move the binary to the correct directory.
make install
Once the install is complete there should be an icon on the GUI desktop to start the app. If like mine it didn’t create the icon then you can start the HAM Clock by using the following command in the terminal.
/usr/local/bin/hamclock &
The first time you start the app you’ll need to enter your station information, callsign, location etc and then select the settings you want to use. There are 4 pages of options for configuring the app all of which are described in the user documentation.
M0AWS – HAM Clock running on RaspberryPi Computer
Once the configuration is complete the map will populate with the default panels and data. I tailored my panels to show the items of interest to me namely, POTA, SOTA, International Beacon Project and the ISS space station track. I was hoping to be able to display more than one satellite at a time on the map however, the interface only allows for one bird to be tracked at a time.
You can access the HAM Clock from another computer using a web browser pointed at your RaspberryPi on your local LAN using either the IP address or the hostname of the device.
http://<hostname>:8081/live.html
or
http://<ip-address>:8081/live.html
You can also control the HAM Clock remotely via web browser using a set of web commands that are detailed on port 8080 of the device.
http://<hostname or ip-address>:8080/
M0AWS – HAM Clock remote command set
This is a great addition to any HAM shack especially if, like me you have an old HDTV on the wall of the shack that is crying out to display something useful.
Since purchasing the Yaesu FTDX10 and getting some wire into the air I’ve been working DX all over the world with ease. So far I’ve not exceeded 25w total output and yet I’ve worked as far as Australia, South America and West Coast USA and Canada. I’m often found to be using far less than 25w, even 5w on the 60m band is a huge amount of fun!
The FTDX10 has an incredible receiver, the best I have ever owned, for the money it really is an amazing bit of kit. The only thing about it that doesn’t work for me is the size when trying to go portable. It’s just a tad too big and requires a huge battery to power it. I love everything else about the FTDX10 apart from this one thing.
So, with the FTDX10 now being the prime shack radio I decided to look into a solution for portable operations. There are many options available today from the cheap Chinese made radios to the old reliable FT817/818 (which I used to own and had a lot of fun with) through to a multitude of newer, more modern full functionality radios. We are truly spoilt for choice these days!
One radio I have read a lot about is the Icom IC-705, it’s an incredibly feature packed little radio with a max output of 10w that covers 160m all the way up to 70cms. With its large super clear colour touch screen and easy swap battery solution it ticks all the boxes.
Icom IC-705 Portable HF/VHF/UHF Transceiver
One thing many people complain about is the fact that the IC-705 doesn’t have a built in ATU. This has never bothered me as I am a firm believer that the ATU should be at the antenna and not in the radio at the end of a long coax run. Running various antenna models on my EzNEC software has shown that keeping the ATU at the antenna is by far the best solution.
Of course Icom have this covered with their AH-705 remote auto ATU that’s specifically designed to compliment the IC-705. Powered by just two AA batteries and utilising latching relays the unit is both very quick to tune and uses next to no power at all, ideal for those Parks on the Air (POTA) or in my case, Beaches on the Air (BOTA) activations.
Being a quality Icom product the AH-705 isn’t cheap, at £299.99 it’s actually one of the most expensive auto ATUs available for the IC-705.
Icom AH-705 Remote Auto ATU
The other thing I wanted was some kind of stand for the IC-705 that would allow me to angle the radio such that the display and controls are always easily useable. On the ML&S site I found a nifty little tripod that will do the job nicely and so, that had to be included in the bundle.
Icom IC-705 Tripod stand
Fortunately for me the AH-705 was on special offer over the Easter Bank Holiday with 40% off making it the same price as the cheaper MAT tuner from china.
So I have now ordered an IC-705, matching AH-705 and the tripod all for the bundle price of £1504.87 including VAT, I even got free shipping thrown in too!
So that leaves just one more thing that I need to complete my radio solution, a morse key!
Having sold my Schurr Profi II Twin Paddle key (Been kicking myself ever since!!) a few years ago when I decided to take a break from radio I’m now in the position of not owning a morse key.
I did order a Vine Antenna RST-TP1 key from ML&S but, that had to go back (There’ll be an article about it coming very soon!) and so, I decided to spend a bit more and get a much better quality key.
Talking to many people online and Tony at ML&S it’s apparent that the Begali Morse keys are some of the best available these days. Looking on the Begali website they certainly have a great selection of high quality keys available, some for much more than I want to spend.
Begali Pearl Twin Paddle Morse Key
So after much consideration I decided to purchase a Begali Pearl Twin Paddle Morse key in Palladium and Gold with red paddles. It’s a super looking key and gets great write ups. It’s also their biggest seller, that says a lot.
More soon …
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