For some time I’ve wanted a full duplex 2m/70cm handheld so I could have a go at working the LEO FM satellites during the summer months from the garden.
Searching through all the handhelds available today I came across the Wouxun KG-UV9K dual band, full duplex VHF/UHF radio.
Since I already own a Wouxun KG-UV980PL Quad bander (6/4/2m & 70cm) I’m familiar with the menu system and the very good build quality so I decided to research it further.
Wouxun KG-UV9K Full Duplex Handheld
Looking at the spec for the handheld it does everything I want and more whilst being reasonably priced.
Jumping onto the Martin Lynch and Sons website I found there were two listings, the radio on its own or the “Pro Pack”.
The radio on its own was £79.00 but, the Pro Pack was only £20 more at £99.00 and came with every option available for the handheld including a programming cable, 2 batteries and a rather nice carry case.
Wouxun KG-UV9K Pro Pack
The full specification and other details for the “Pro Pack” can be found on the ML&S website but, here’s a brief summary:
Pro pack contains:
KG-UV9K Transceiver with 2 antennas
Two batteries Two belt-clips Software and transfer data Cable Fast charger dock and Power Supply Hand speaker mic Battery eliminator Manual Wrist strap Leather case In-car charger SMA-SO239 adaptor Hands-Free kit
Like my Wouxun quad bander the handheld can also be configured as a cross-band repeater, something I’ve not yet found a use for but an interesting feature. Of course being a full duplex radio with two receivers you can listen to signals on 2m and 70cm simultaneously or transmit on one and listen on the other, a feature I’ve wanted for LEO satellite operations.
The radio is really easy to programme using CHIRP and easy to setup via the very logical menu layout. The hand held has a good solid feel to it and I’ve found the battery lasts a good 3-4 days even though I use it to chat with other stations via my AllStarLink node most mornings and the radio is left monitoring all day.
The larger of the two supplied antennas works extremely well having a relatively good gain. I can now easily get into my two local repeaters on 2m & 70cm from within the house, something I’ve never been able to do with my old Retevis RT85 even with a high gain antenna on it.
The receivers in the UV9K are head and shoulders better than that of the Retevis RT85, I’m hearing signals much stronger now and can even get into repeaters that I’ve never even heard on the old Retevis handheld.
The display on the Wouxun is bright and easy to read, even in bright sunshine which is great as I plan to use it outside a lot during the summer months.
The supplied speaker mic gets good unsolicited audio reports on transmit and has clear audio on receive with plenty of volume. The speaker mic doesn’t have any radio control buttons on it sadly, something I really like about the Wouxun UV980PL quad bander as you can control every aspect of the radio without touching the front panel. Would be a nice upgrade for the handheld if it every became available.
Overall I’m really impressed with the Wouxun UV9K Pro Pack. The radio performs very well, comes with every optional extra available and is a bargain at just £99.00.
If you’re looking for a full duplex handheld radio then I recommend you grab the Pro Pack before the offer ends.
I recently decided to look into a 2m/70cm FM radio for the shack for use on the local 2m/70cm repeaters and was considering the offerings from Yaesu and Icom however, the Wouxun KG UV-980PL caught my eye as it is a quad band, full duplex radio. Not knowing much about Wouxun radios I had to do some research to get an idea of what it’s like. Generally the radio gets very good reviews and most mention the excellent build quality.
There are two versions of the 980P radio, the 980PL that offers 6/4/2m and 70cm bands and the 980P that offers 10/6/2m and 70cm. The 4m is a band I’ve been wanting to try for some time and the 980PL with it’s 4m band coverage became even more appealing.
Wouxun KG UV-980PL Quad Band FM Duplex Transceiver
I decided to take a trip down to Martin Lynch and Sons (MLANDS), a good 2 hours or more drive for me, so that I could get hands on with the radios that I had been looking at.
I invited Alan, G1SQB along for the ride and a day out playing with radios as he lives 3 miles away and we often chat on air.
Arriving at the store we grabbed a hot brew and set about playing with the great selection of radios on display.
I initially looked at the Icom IC-2730E, a dual band full duplex transceiver that has been around for about 10 years and has good reviews. As expected the build quality is excellent and very easy to use. I found I was soon able to set up memories etc via the front panel controls. The only draw back is that it isn’t supported by the CHIRP programming software that I use. Other than that it certainly meets all the requirements for a 2m/70cm FM transceiver
Icom IC-2730E FM Duplex Transceiver
Next I moved on to the offerings from Yaesu including the FTM-500DE 2m/70cm transceiver. The colour screen is very nice and the menu system very easy to use however, the price is getting on for close to double that of the other radios and it doesn’t really offer anything more that interests me since I’m only looking for an analog radio.
Yaesu FTM-500DR dual band FM Transceiver
Sadly there wasn’t a Wouxun UV-980PL out on display and so I had to persuade the salesman to get one out of stock for me to play with. Unpacking the radio I was surprised at how good the build quality is, it really is comparable to the other radios that I had been looking at.
The Wouxun menu system is fairly easy to use once you’ve looked at the manual and got to grips the abbreviations used. The big plus is that this radio is CHIRP compatible with an optional programming cable (£19) and so loading the memories with repeaters etc will be extremely easy.
The Wouxun has dual receivers built in with a quad-plexer so, you can transmit on one band whilst listening to another band on the other receiver. One thing to note is that the 1st receiver covers all the bands, 6/4/2m and 70cm however, the 2nd receiver only covers 2m and 70cm so, it’s not possible to receive 4m and 6m at the same time. The radio also only has one antenna connection on the rear, would had been great if it had one connector for each receiver.
The really good thing about the Wouxun UV-980PL is that it comes with everything you will need, apart from the programming cable!
After much tinkering I decided to purchase the Wouxun KG UV-980PL, a Diamond V2000 6/2m and 70cm antenna plus 20m of Hyperflex-13 coax cable and connectors.
In the box you’ll find two mounting options for the removable head. There is a short connecting cable for use when the head is mounted directly on the radio body and a 5m long connecting cable for mounting the head remotely. This is really useful as I wanted to mount the head on a mic boom arm so that it’s easily accessible and didn’t clutter the desk space in the shack.
Wouxun KG UV-980PL head mounted on a Mic boom arm
Since the radio also comes with the mobile mount I’ve fixed the radio body on the wall behind the PC monitor out the way. This setup has proven to be extremely good as I can see what’s happening on the display at a glance and easily grab the mic if called.
Programming the radio memories is extremely quick and easy using CHIRP. I had the local repeaters and my AllStarLink node frequencies and offsets uploaded to the radio in no time at all and was soon on air.
Programming the memories on the Wouxun UV-980PL using CHIRP
The microphone that comes with the radio is extremely good. You can operate most of the controls on the radio directly from the mic with ease and it has a good feel in the hand. Audio reports have also been very good and there’s no need to change it.
I’ve not yet got the new Diamond V2000 antenna erected but, I’ve been using the radio with my homebrew 2m/70cm end fed vertical dipole and my 4m band end fed vertical dipole and am getting excellent results. I can access all the local repeaters using the lowest power output setting and only have to use the medium/high setting for the repeaters that are further afield.
On the 4m band the radio performs well and I’ve been surprised at the distances I’ve been able to cover even though my 4m antenna is only 6-7m above the ground currently.
A few days after I got the new Wouxun radio there was an ARISS event whereby a group of Girl Guides would be talking to Astronaut Sunita Williams aboard the ISS. This was a great opportunity to test the receive capability of the radio and so I setup ready for the pass. Using just my simple 2m/70cm end fed vertical dipole I got great reception as can be heard in the video below.
Overall I’m extremely pleased with the Wouxun KG UV-980PL quad band radio and considering it’s much cheaper than the offerings from the main radio manufacturers it’s well built and performs extremely well. If you’re looking for a simple, analog FM radio for 6/4/2m/70cms then you can’t beat it!
Please note: This build is now deprecated and will no longer work. Please use the new AllStarLink 3 build process as documented on the AllStarLink website.
We’ve recently added a new room to the Matrix HAM Radio Space for Digital Voice modes as this was an area of interest that didn’t really fit into any of the other rooms.
The new Digital Voice room has attracted a lot of attention from members, with a lot of the focus being on the AllStarLink system. Michael, DK1MI built an AllStarLink node in the cloud for us all to use for Matrix Nets and so I decided I had to get in on the fun.
Jumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface Front Panel ViewJumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface Rear ViewJumbospot SHARI SA818 Amateur Radio AllStarLink Radio Interface stripped down View
The two USB connectors on the SHARI device are position such that they plug into two of the available 4 USB ports on the RaspberryPi without the need for cables. This keeps the whole solution together in one neat package.
Before you start you will need to obtain a node number and secret (password) from the AllStarLink Portal. To get this you will need to provide proof to the AllStarLink administrators that you are a licensed Amateur Radio (HAM) operator. This is done by uploading a copy of the first page of your HAM licence to the website for the admin team to check. This can take 24hrs to be completed so make sure you get this all done before trying to build your node. You cannot build a node successfully without a node number and secret.
Of course you will also need a transceiver that can operate on the 438.800Mhz frequency or other frequency of your choice on the 2m or 70cm HAM band.
You will also need to open port 4569 on your internet router and setup port forwarding to the IP Address that you will be using on your RaspberryPi node. It’s important to use a static IP Address on your RaspberryPi.
There are quite a few different Linux based operating system (O/S) images that are available for the RaspberryPi devices that have been specifically tailored for the AllStarLink node and include all the necessary software and library packages out the box.
Once downloaded you need to burn the ISO image onto a suitable SD card for your RaspberryPi. I use BalenaEtcher as it’s extremely quick and reliable at burning ISO images to SD cards.
Of course if you are a hardline Linux command line junkie you can always use dd to create the SD card.
Once you’ve got your O/S onto your SD card, slot it into your RaspberryPi making sure your SHARI device is connected to the two USB ports and then power it up. Make sure you have a good PSU for the RaspberryPi as the two devices together draw around 3A of current during the transmit cycle. (I use a 3.6A PSU from Amazon).
The default login for the Raspbian O/S is shown below. Login via SSH and configure your RaspberryPi for your local network. It’s important to use a static IP Address configured either directly on the RaspberryPi or via DHCP in your router.
Next you need to change directory into the asterisk config file directory using the command shown below:
cd /etc/asterisk
In this directory you will find all the default config files that come as part of the distro. For this build we’re not going to use them and so we need to move them out of the way ready for a set of config files that have already been configured correctly.
Using the following commands create a new directory, move into that new directory and then move all the unwanted configuration files into it:
mkdir ORIGINAL-CONF-FILES
cd ./ORIGINAL-CONF-FILES
mv ../*.conf ./
ls -la
cd ../
You should now be back in the /etc/asterisk directory which will now be empty apart from the custom directory which we left in place.
You now need to copy the correctly configured configuration files into the /etc/asterisk directory. Start by downloading the zip file containing the new configuration files
Download removed as deprecated.
Once downloaded, copy the .zip file into the repeater users home directory (/home/repeater) using either scp on the Linux command line or if using Windows you can use the FileZilla Client in SFTP mode using the login details above.
Once you have the .zip file in the repeater user’s home directory you need to copy the file into the /etc/asterisk directory as user root:
Next as user root, change directory into the /etc/asterisk directory and unzip the .zip file:
cd /etc/asterisk
unzip ./AllStarLink-Config-v3.zip
Once the file is unzipped you will have a directory called AllStarLink-Config in the /etc/asterisk directory. You now need to cd into the directory, copy all the files out of it into the /etc/asterisk directory leaving a copy in the AllStarLink-Config directory for future reference:
cd /etc/asterisk/AllStarLink-Config
cp ./* /etc/asterisk
cd /etc/asterisk
You now need to move a couple of files into the repeater users home directory using the following commands:
The gpioBASH script and configuration details were supplied by Mark, G1INU in the Digital Voice room on the Matrix. It adds the COS light functionality to the setup. The COS light will now light every time the SA818 hears RF on the input.
The next thing you need to do is configure the SA818 radio device in the SHARI. The script I used was originally from https://wiki.fm-funknetz.de/doku.php?id=fm-funknetz:technik:shari-sa818 all I’ve done is change the entries to switch off CTCSS and change the frequency to 438.800Mhz. Configuring the SA818 is done by running the SA818-running.pyPython programme that you moved into the repeater user home directory. Making sure you are still user root, run the following commands:
cd /home/repeater
./SA818-running.py
At this point your SHARI SA818 device will be configured to operate on 438.800Mhz and CTCSS will be disabled.
If you want to change the frequency or enable and set a CTCSS tone to access the node you will need to edit the Python programme using your favourite text editor and change the entries accordingly. Once changed rerun the program as shown above and your SHARI will be reconfigured to your new settings.
Next you need to move the allmon.ini.php file into the correct directory so that it enables access to the Allstar Monitor web page on the device so that you can manage connecting/disconnecting nodes. Use the following commands as user root to achieve this:
The allmon.ini.php file needs to have your node name entered into it to work correctly. As user root, change directory and edit the file using your favourite editor.
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
Using your text editor, search for the line starting [XXXXX] and change the XXXXX to your node number. Save the change and exit the file.
At this point you are almost complete, all that is left to do is add your node number and node secret into the appropriate configuration files in the /etc/asterisk directory.
Since I am a Linux command line junkie I use vi to edit all the configuration files on the command line as user root, but you can use any editor of your choice.
cd /etc/asterisk
Start with the extensions.conf file. Search for the line starting with NODE = and delete the XXXXX entry and insert your node number. Save the file and exit it.
Next you need to edit the iax.conf file. This time search for the line starting with register= and change the XXXXX for your node number and the YYYYYYYYYYYY for your node secret. Be careful not to accidentally delete any other characters in the lines otherwise it will corrupt the configuration file.
In the same file search for the two lines that start with secret = and change the YYYYYYYYYYYY for your node secret. Once you have changed both of the secret entries, save and exit the file.
The final file to edit is the rpt.conf file. Once again open the file using your favourite editor and search for the line starting with XXXXX = radio@127.0.0.1:4569/XXXXX, change the XXXXX entries for your node number making sure not to delete any other characters next to the XXXXX entries.
Further down in the same file there is a line that starts with [XXXXX], once again change the XXXXX for your node number making sure to keep the square brackets at each end of the node number as you edit it.
Finally move down to the very bottom of the file and find the two lines that start with /home/repeater/gpio, once again change the XXXXX entries for your node number.
The final thing to change in the rpt.conf file is to replace my callsign with your own callsign so that the node identifies itself correctly. Scroll through the file until you find the two lines shown below, delete M0AWS and add your own callsign instead making sure you keep all the spaces between words as shown below.
idrecording = |i DE M0AWS
idtalkover = |i DE M0AWS
Once this is done, save and exit the file. At this point your node should be fully configured and will only require a reboot to get it working.
As user root, reboot your raspi using the reboot command.
reboot
Once your raspi comes back online, login using SSH as user repeater and then become root user using the sudo command detailed above.
You now need to create the admin user password for the Allstar Monitor web page on the device. This is done using the following commands as user root:
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
htpasswd -c .htpasswd admin
You will be asked to enter a password twice for the admin user. Make sure you make a note of this user/password as you will need it to login to the web page.
Finally check that the controlpanel.ini.php file is in the /var/www/html/allmon2 directory:
ls -la /var/www/html/allmon2/controlpanel.ini.php
If the file isn’t shown in the directory, enter the following commands to create the file in the correct place as user root and then exit the SSH session:
cd /var/www/html/allmon2
cp ./controlpanel.ini.txt ./controlpanel.ini.php
cd
exit
Once this is done your configuration is complete, logout from the terminal session by entering exit once more and your SSH session will terminate.
Using your favourite web browser enter the IP Address of your raspi into the URL bar as shown below:
http://<Your-Raspi-IP>/allmon2
Note: remove the <> from the URL once you have entered the required information.
Once this is done you should be presented with your node control panel as shown below.
First visit to the AllStar Monitor Web Page
Login using Admin and the password you set above and you are now ready to start using your node.
It’s a good idea to connect to node 55553 which is a parrot test node to check your audio levels. You can do this by entering the node into the field at the top left and pressing the connect button.
M0AWS AllStarLink Node 61928 connected to 55553 Parrot
Once connected, tune your radio to 438.800Mhz FM and transmit a test message using your callsign and test123, or something similar. The parrot will then play your recording back to you so that you can hear how you sound. It will also comment on your audio level as to whether it is OK or not.
You are now connected to AllStarLink network and have the world at your finger tips. Below is a small list of nodes in the UK, Australia and America to get you started chatting with other HAMs via your node.
57881 Matrix HAM Radio Space AllStarLink Node (Hosted by Dk1MI)
55553 ASL Parrot for testing
41522 M0HOY HUBNet Manchester, UK
60349 VK6CIA 439.275 Perth, Western Australia
51077 VK6SEG South West Hub B Albany WA
2167 M0JKT FreeSTAR UK HUB 2 freestar.network
53573 NWAG NW AllStar Group Lancashire, UK
27339 East Coast Hub Wilmington NC USA
M0AWS AllStarLink Node 61928 sitting on the equipment rack
Thanks to Michael, DK1MI for building and hosting the Matrix HAM Radio Space AllStarLink Node (57881) and getting us all started in the world of AllStarLink!
We hope to be having regular Matrix Net’s on the node soon for all Matrix members and visitors. We’ll organise days/times via the Digital Voice room.
Since purchasing my Retevis RT85 2m/70cm handheld radio I’ve noticed that it seems rather deaf when using the antenna that came with the radio and isn’t as strong into the local repeaters as I imagined it would be.
Considering the local 2m and 70cm repeater isn’t that far from my QTH and there is pretty much a clear line of site view in the direction of the repeater I was somewhat surprised that on 70cm the repeater never breaks the squelch, even if it is set on it’s lowest setting of zero.
M0AWS Retevis RT85 dual band VHF/UHF Handheld Radio
Connecting my home made end fed dual band vertical dipole at 10m above ground the performance of the radio improves drastically as one would expect.
Having recently purchased a JNCRadio VNA 3G antenna analyser I decided to connect the Retevis supplied antenna to the analyser and see what the resonance was like on the two bands.
The antenna is labelled as 136-174Mhz and 400-470Mhz. This is an extremely wide frequency range for such a small antenna and clearly isn’t going to perform that well over such a wide bandwidth.
Connecting the antenna to the VNA and setting the stimulus frequency range to 144-148Mhz I found that the SWR curve of the antenna wasn’t particularly good.
M0AWS Retevis RT85 Antenna SWR Curve 2m
As shown above the SWR curve on the 2m Band is pretty poor. At 144.0Mhz it’s just over 3:1, at 145.496 (closest I could get to the 145.500 calling channel) the SWR is still 2.1:1. The antenna doesn’t really get close to resonance until 148Mhz where the SWR is 1.46:1.
With an SWR this high the radio will almost certainly be reducing the O/P power considerably to protect the PA stage from over heating due to so much power be reflected back into the transmitter. This explains the poor performance when using 2m repeaters locally and the somewhat limited range when using the OEM supplied antenna.
Looking at the SWR curve on the 70cm band, the antenna is much closer to resonance than it is on the 2m band but, it’s still not perfect.
M0AWS Retevis RT85 Antenna SWR Curve 70cm
At 430Mhz the SWR is 1.56:1, at 435Mhz 1.63:1 and 440Mhz 1.72:1. Since the antenna is much closer to resonance on the 70cm band I would expect it to perform better than it does.
Looking at the SWR curves over the entire supported frequency range of 136-174Mhz and 400-470Mhz, there is only one point of resonance on VHF around 148Mhz and on UHF around 400Mhz.
With such disappointing performance on both VHF and UHF I’ve decided to investigate making my own 2m/70cm antenna for the handheld to see if I can improve both the SWR on each band and the overall performance of the radio.
Following on from my 2m Band Eggbeater Satellite Antenna here’s the design for the 70cm Band version that will enable duplex satellite operation.
The design is basically the same as the 2m antenna but, with smaller dimensions. All modelling has been done with the antenna at 5m AGL.
70cm Band Eggbeater Satellite Antenna
Each of the Eggbeater loops has a conductor size of 5mm and a circumference of 73.5cm with the radials exactly 5cm below the bottom of the loops. The 8 radials are exactly 34.15cm long each. The distance between the bottom of the eggbeater loops and the radials must be 5cm to get the best radiation pattern from the antenna.
With these dimensions the antenna has an SWR of <1.5:1 across the whole 70cm band making it ideal for both satellite and general repeater/SSB working.
70cm Band Eggbeater Satellite Antenna 3D Far Field Plot
The 3D far field plot shows that the antenna has a good mix of high and low angle radiation that makes it ideal for working satellites at all elevation angles.
70cm Band Eggbeater Satellite Antenna 2D Far Field Plot
The 2D far field plot shows that the antenna has the following high gain lobes:
The null at the top of the antenna isn’t as pronounced as on the 2m model and so this antenna should perform better when the satellite is directly above. Just like on the 2m band version, this antenna must also have a feed phase angle of 90 degrees between the two eggbeater elements. It’s very important that the phasing harness is built accurately as it can impact the radiation pattern of the antenna if the phase angle isn’t correct.
ON6WG has written an excellent article on how to create the phasing harness using 2 pieces of coax cable, this is an ideal solution for this antenna.
I had a listen for the ISS FM Repeater this morning using my Dual Band End Fed Vertical Dipole antenna. Not the best antenna for satellite chasing especially since it was a high angle pass this morning however, I did get a relatively good copy on the ISS before it got too high in the sky and fell into the null at the top of the vertical.
A short clip form the ISS pass 25/04/23 AM
I think with an eggbeater antenna reception will improve considerably.
Since purchasing my Icom IC-705 radio I’ve only used it on the HF bands. Since the IC-705 is a “shack-in-a-box” I thought it was about time I ventured up onto the VHF/UHF bands and add another string to my bow.
Since I don’t have an antenna for these two bands I’d need to build something. I’m not really interested in DXing on the VHF/UHF bands as I’d need a yagi or two, a rotator and would need to get the entire setup up high on the chimney on the house.
We’re very fortunate in that there are a good many repeaters on VHF/UHF in East Anglia with quite a few being well within range of my QTH.
So I decided to go with a simple vertical antenna of some sort that I could easily attach to the top of a 10m spider pole and pop up in the garden without too much hassle.
The simplest of all antennas to build for any band is an end fed vertical dipole. It’s made purely from a piece of coax cable, you can’t get much simpler.
Using some dimensions I found online I unrolled a length of RG58U and set about cutting it to resonance for the two bands.
To start I measured out 910mm of RG58U and put a piece of tape around the cable at the 910mm point. I then stripped the top 460mm of the outer and braid from the coax so that the inner wire and plastic insulation was exposed. This then left 450mm of coax with the braid still in place to make up the 2nd half of the vertical dipole.
At the 910mm marker I wound the coax 9 times around a 27mm former to create a choke balun. I taped the coil up to ensure it kept it’s shape, removed it from the former and then used a few zip ties to hold it in place.
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole Diagram
The diagram above aids in visualisation of the make up of the antenna that is made from a single piece of RG58U coax cable.
Choke Balun made from 9 turns of RG58U on a 27mm former
I next wound some electrical tape around the point on the antenna where the outer insulation and braid ended so that it would stop moisture getting into the rest of the coax and causing problems in the future. I also put a bit of electrical tape across the top of the end of the wire to stop moisture getting into the inner wire and then a piece of electrical tape around the wire to ensure it was fully sealed.
Electrical tape wound around the point where the outer braid finishes
At this point the antenna was complete! It literally took a few minutes to make. I could now either cut the coax a few centimetres from the bottom of the coil and fit a PL259 or just continue the coaxial cable back into the shack and fit a PL259 on the end. I decided to go with the latter as it’s one less connection to make.
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole taped to the top of a 10m spiderpole
Once complete, I taped the antenna to the top of a 10m spider pole and then ran the rest of the coax back into the shack and soldered on a PL259 connector.
Raising the spider pole up to its maximum length put the antenna some 10m up above the ground. Hopefully this will give me a relatively clear path to the local repeaters.
Plugging the antenna into the IC-705 and checking the SWR I found it was <1.2:1 across the entire 2m band and <1.5:1 across most of the 70cm band. It was perfect for what I wanted!
VHF/UHF End Fed Vertical Dipole up 10m on a Spiderpole
I configured the local repeaters into the the IC-705 memories so that I could easily switch from one repeater to the next with all the appropriate tone and duplex frequency shifts set at the touch of a button.
My local 2m repeater GB3PO comes in at 5/9+10dB without any preamp and the local 70cm repeater GB3IH comes in at 5/9+5dB without any preamp. I was really pleased with the results and set about having a chat with other local HAMs on the local repeaters. It’s been a while since I’ve used the mic on this radio and it made a nice change!
To my surprise I found I could get into far more repeaters than I ever imagined. GB3NB in Norwich is 5/8 as are a number of repeaters down in Essex. This gives me quite a scope for chatting on the VHF/UHF bands via the repeater network.
To my surprise I can also hear ON0WV in Brugge Belgium, unfortunately it’s on the same frequency as the local 2m GB3PO repeater and so often gets drowned out completely but, it’s good to know that when there’s a lift in propagation I should be able to get into the near continent without too much hassle.
If you’re looking to build a simple but, effective 2m/70cm vertical for local repeater access then I highly recommend making an end fed vertical dipole. It only takes a few minutes to cut the cable to length, remove the outer sheath and braid and wind the choke balun, it really couldn’t be any easier.
This new radio from Icom looks like it’ll make the SHF bands much more accessible to the average Amateur Radio enthusiast. Prices wise I can’t see it being cheap, it’s going to be a top shelf device for sure, especially if you purchase the optional 10Ghz transverter as well.
With the optional 10Ghz transverter it’ll certainly be an impressive piece of kit for any HAM radio station.
It will be interesting to see if it has enough output power to be able to get into the QO-100 geostationary satellite that sits over Africa. If so, this could really open up the QO-100 service to many more radio enthusiasts within the footprint of the bird.
More soon …
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